r, and then pushed on to reach Palajoki the same night. We
drove through the birch woods, no longer glorious as before, for the
snow had been shaken off, and there was no sunset light to transfigure
them. Still on, ploughing through deep seas in the gathering darkness,
over marshy plains, all with a slant southward, draining into the
Muonio, until we reached the birchen ridge of Suontajarvi, with its
beautiful firs rising here and there, silent and immovable. Even the
trees have no voices in the North, let the wind blow as it will. There
is nothing to be heard but the sharp whistle of the dry snow--the same
dreary music which accompanies the African simoom. The night was very
dark, and we began to grow exceedingly tired of sitting flat in our
pulks. I looked sharp for the Palajok Elv, the high fir-fringed banks of
which I remembered, for they denoted our approach to the Muonio; but it
was long, long before we descended from the marshes upon the winding
road of snow-covered ice. In vain I shifted my aching legs and worked my
benumbed hands, looking out ahead for the embouchure of the river.
Braisted and I encouraged each other, whenever we were near enough to
hear, by the reminder that we had only one more day with reindeer. After
a long time spent in this way, the high banks flattened, level snows and
woods succeeded, and we sailed into the port of Palajoki.

The old Finnish lady curtsied very deeply as she recognised us, and
hastened to cook our coffee and reindeer, and to make us a good bed with
sheets. On our former visit the old lady and her sons had watched us
undress and get into bed, but on this occasion three buxom daughters, of
ages ranging from sixteen to twenty-two, appeared about the time for
retiring, and stationed themselves in a row near the door, where they
watched us with silent curiosity. As we had shown no hesitation in the
first case, we determined to be equally courageous now, and commenced
removing our garments with great deliberation, allowing them every
opportunity of inspecting their fashion and the manner of wearing them.
The work thus proceeded in mutual silence until we were nearly ready for
repose, when Braisted, by pulling off a stocking and displaying a
muscular calf, suddenly alarmed the youngest, who darted to the door and
rushed out. The second caught the panic, and followed, and the third and
oldest was therefore obliged to do likewise, though with evident
reluctance. I was greatly amus