ng in
Europe at present, who possesses such extensive acquirements, or is
animated by a more genuine desire for the good of his kingdom. The slow
progress which Sweden has made in introducing needful reforms is owing
to the conservative spirit of the nobility and the priesthood, who
possess half the legislative power. I do not believe there is a greater
enemy to progress than an established church. Oscar is deservedly
popular throughout Sweden, and I wish I could believe that his successor
will exhibit equal intelligence and liberality. During my stay I saw all
the members of the Royal Family frequently, and once had an informal
self-presentation to the whole of them. I was descending the stairway of
Kahn's Hotel one afternoon, when a tall, black-bearded, Frenchy
gentleman coming up, brushed so close to me in the narrow passage that
he received the full benefit of a cloud of smoke which I was
ejaculating. It was the Crown Prince, as a servant whispered to me, but
as my cigar was genuine Havana, and he is said to be a connoisseur of
the article, there was no harm done. As I reached the street door a
dragoon dashed up, preceding the carriages containing the Royal Family,
who were coming to view Professor Enslen's panoramas. First, the Crown
Princess, with her children; she bowed gracefully in answer to my
greeting. The Princess Eugenia, a lady of twenty-seven, or thereabouts,
with a thoroughly cheerful and amiable face, came next and nodded,
smiling. With her was the Queen, a daughter of Eugene Beauharnais, a
handsome woman for her years, with the dark hair and eyes of her
grandmother, Josephine. King Oscar followed, at the head of a company
of officers and nobles, among whom was his second son, Prince Oscar, the
handsomest young man in Stockholm. He wore his Admiral's uniform, and
made me a naval salute as he passed. The King is about medium height,
with a symmetrical head, a bold, finely-cut nose, keen, intelligent
eyes, and a heavy grey moustache. There was something gallant, dashing,
and manly in his air, despite his fifty-seven years. He gave me the
impression of an honest, energetic and thoroughly accomplished man; and
this is the character he bears throughout Sweden, except with a small
class, who charge him with being insincere, and too much under the
influence of the Queen, against whom, however, they can find no charge,
except that of her Catholicism.

I was sorry to notice, not only in Stockholm, but more or le