Count.= In the case of woolen yarn there are numerous systems for
denoting the count, varying with the locality in which it is spun and
the character of the product. In the United States there are two
systems employed, but the one in most general use is known as
"American run counts." This is based on the number of "runs," each
containing 1,600 yards to the pound. Thus, a yarn running 8,000 yards
to the pound is called a 5 "run" yarn, a yarn with 5,200 yards to the
pound is equal to a 3-1/4 "run."

In the vicinity of Philadelphia woolen yarn is based on the "cut,"
each cut consisting of 300 yards, and the count is the number of cuts
in a pound. Thus, No. 30 cut yarn consists of 9,000 yards to the
pound. No. 15 contains 4,500 yards to the pound.

Woolen yarn is suitable for cloths in which the colorings are blended
and the fibers napped, as exemplified in tweed, cheviot, doeskin,
broadcloth, beaver, frieze, chinchilla, blanket, and flannel.

CHAPTER VI

WEAVING

=Preparatory to Weaving.= Yarn is wound on bobbins on the ring or mule
spinning frame. These bobbins are transferred to a machine called a
spooler where the yarn is re-wound on a spool preparatory to making
the warp.

A warp is formed by obtaining a definite number of threads (called
ends), usually in a precisely designed order of given length, and
allowing the ends to wind over a cylinder called a beam. In order to
do this it is necessary to have spools placed in a definite position
in a frame called a creel.

Before the warp can be placed in the loom so as to weave or interlace
it with filling it must be sized. This is necessary for all single
twist warp yarns. Its primary object is to increase the strength and
smoothness of the thread, thus enabling it to withstand the strain and
friction due to the weaving operation. Other objects of sizing are the
increase of weight and bulk of the thread and the improvement and feel
of the cloth. The warp is usually sized by passing it over a roller
and through a bath of a starch mixture. The machine for sizing is
called a slasher. The warp is now ready to have the ends drawn in and
placed in the loom.

=Weaving.= Every woven piece of cloth is made up of two distinct
systems of threads, known as the warp and filling (weft), which are
interlaced with each other to form a fabric. The warp threads run
lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the filling runs across from
side to side. The manner in which the war