is used, while for the
production of checks, plaids, etc., two or more shuttles are required.

[Illustration: GIRL DRAWING EACH THREAD OF WARP THROUGH THE REED AND
HARNESS READY TO BE PLACED ON LOOM

A, warp beam. B, warp. C, harness frame]

=Twill Weave.= A twill weave has diagonal lines across the cloth. In
this class of weaves the filling yarn or threads pass over 1 and under
2, or over 1 and under 3, 4, 5, or 6, or over 2 or 3 and under 1, 2,
3, or 4, or over 4 and under 4, 3, 6, etc. Each filling thread does
not pass under and over the same set of warp threads, as this would
not give the desired interlacings. Instead the order of interlacing
moves one thread to the right or left with each filling thread that is
woven. If there are the same number of threads to an inch in warp and
filling, twill lines will form an angle of 45 degrees; if the warps
are closer together than the filling, the angle will be steeper; if
the filling threads are closer together the lines will approach more
nearly the horizontal. Different effects are obtained in patterns by
variation in the sizes of the yarn and twist, by the use of heavy
threads to form cords, ribs, etc., and by the mixture of vari-colored
materials in the yarn. Often one form of twill-weave is combined with
another to produce a fancy twill-weave. The object of the
twill-weaving is to increase the bulk and strength of a fabric, or to
ornament it. The disposition of the threads permits the introduction
of more material into the cloth, and hence renders it heavier, and of
closer construction than in the case of plain-weaving.

=Satin Weaves.= The object of a satin weave is to distribute the
interlacings of the warp and filling in such a manner that no trace of
the diagonal (twill) line will be seen on the face of the cloth. In
weaving a satin design the filling thread is made to pass under 1 and
over 4, 7, 9, 11, or more if a larger plush satin is required. The
raising of the warp end to allow the filling to pass under is done in
such a way as to prevent twill lines from showing in the cloth. The
result is that practically all of the filling is on the face of the
cloth. This is called a filling-face satin weave. A warp-face satin
weave may be produced by reversing the order; in this case practically
all of the warp is brought to the face of the cloth. In this way a
worsted warp and a cotton filling might be woven so that practically
all of the warp would show on the c