forming the back; again it may be to produce double-face
fabric; it allows great freedom for the formation of colored patterns
which may or may not correspond in pattern on both sides; it is the
basis of tubular weaving such as is practised for making pillow cases,
pockets, seamless grain bags, etc.; more frequently, the object is to
increase the bulk or strength of certain kinds of fabrics, such as
heavy overcoatings, cloakings, pile-fabrics, golf-cloth, rich silk,
etc.
=Pile Weave.= A pile weave is a general term under which are classed
numerous varieties of cloth woven with a pile surface, as plush,
velvet, velveteen, and carpeting of various kinds. Turkish towels are
an excellent illustration of pile weaving. A pile surface is a closely
set, elastic face covering various kinds of woolen, silk, and cotton
fabrics, and consists of threads standing close together, either in
the form of loops or as erect thread-ends sheared off smooth so as to
form a uniform and even surface. In the production of a pile fabric a
third thread is introduced into the weaving and formed into loops
usually by carrying it over the wires laid across the breadth of the
cloth. The wires are afterward drawn out, leaving the loops standing;
the loops may then be cut so as to form a cut pile, as in velvet and
plush, or they may be left in their original form as in Brussels
carpet and Turkish towels.
=Gauze Weaving.= In gauze weaving all the warp threads are not
parallel to each other, but are made to intertwist more or less among
themselves, thereby favoring the production of light, open fabrics, in
which many ornamental lace-like combinations can be obtained. Two sets
of warp threads are used, one being the ground warp and the other the
"douping," the latter performing the entwining process. Gauze is
especially characterized by its openness and yields the lightest and
strongest fabric with the least material. When gauze is combined with
plain weaving it is styled "leno." Gauze fabrics are designed for
women's summer gowns, flounces, window-curtains, etc.
=Lappet Weaving.= Lappet weaving, really a form of embroidery, is used
for producing small designs on cloth by means of needles placed in a
sliding-frame, the figures being stitched into the warp. Elaborate
figures are beyond the range of lappet weaving, but there are many
small effects that can be economically produced in this manner, such
as the detached spots in dotted swiss, and narrow
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