parallel relationship to each other,
resulting in the production of a smooth, hard yarn having a
well-defined surface; hence weave-ornamentation of a decided or marked
type is possible by its use. There is, in a word, more scope for
pattern effects, since the level and regular structure of the yarn
imparts a distinction to every part of a woven design. From this
peculiarity arises the great variety of effects seen in the worsted
dress fabrics, coatings, trouserings, etc., both in colored patterns
and in fabrics of one shade throughout.

[Illustration: SPOOL ROOM

1. Jack Spooler frame.
2. Drum upon which Jack Spool rests.
3. Jack Spool.
4. Guides for spool ends.
5. Spools containing yarn.
6. Pressers which rest on spools to prevent slack ends.
7. Spool creel.]

[Illustration: FRENCH SPINNING

1. Balling heads.
2. Bobbins upon which stock is wound.
3. Rub or condenser aprons.
4. Gearing for driving rub motion.
5. Shipper rod and handles.
6. Bobbins held in place in creel by skewers.
7. Weights with system of levers for applying pressure to rollers.]

Worsted yarn can be made of pure wool; and as a rule, the wool used in
the English system is of fairly good length and uniform staple, for if
otherwise it is only with difficulty that the yarn can be spun
straight. Shorter wool can be combed and spun under the French
system, and this is the reason why the French system of spinning is
being introduced. On the other hand, in the spinning of woolen yarns
great length of staple is not essential, for the machinery employed
will work the small fibers.

=Uses of Worsted Yarn.= Worsted yarn may be used in any of the
following fabrics:

1. Combed wool yarn for ornamental needlework and knitting, as Berlin,
Zephyr, and Saxony wools.

2. Cloth made from combed wool not classified according to material.

_a._ Fabrics of all wool--serge, bunting, rep, dress
goods, with weave effects.

_b._ Wool and Cotton--union goods, serge linings,
lathing.

_c._ Wool and Silk--rich poplin, pongee, henrietta,
bombazine.

_d._ Alpaca and Mohair--alpaca, mohair dress goods,
lusters, braids, laces.

=Counts.= Yarn is measured by a system of "counts"--the number of
yards of yarn to the pound. The counts of worsted yarn are based on
the number of hanks in one pound, each hank containing 560 yards. Thus
No. 30 worsted yarn consists of 30 hanks of 560 yards each, or 16,800