h Rabbit.
Although we know that both Gruyere and Emmentaler are what we call
Swiss and that it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich
Alpine flavor given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all
sorts of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to stick
to Savarin's "lump of Gruyere" just as the neighboring French and
Italians do. It is interesting to note that this Swiss Alpine cooking
has become so international that it is credited to Italy in the
following description we reprint from _When Madame Cooks_, by an
Englishman, Eric Weir:

Fondue a l'Italienne

This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel really
grateful to hens. From its name it originated probably in Italy,
but it has crossed the Alps. I have often met it in France, but
only once in Italy.

First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, flour
and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow the wooden
spoon to stand upright or almost.

Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated Gruyere
cheese. Mix this in well with the white sauce and season with
salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. Beat whites of egg firm. Add
the whites to the preparation, stir in, and pour into a pudding
basin.

Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring to a
boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top of the
basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently for 1-1/2 to
2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time to time, as it
evaporates, and take care that the water, in boiling, does not
bubble over the mixture.

Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is cooked. When
the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and
turn the Fondue out on a dish. It should be fairly firm and keep
the shape of the basin.

Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot.

The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, then
marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before being
melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be pleasantly adopted
here in:

All-American Fondue

1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed
3/4 cup scuppernong or other American white wine
1-1/2 jiggers applejack

After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply melt
together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, add the
applejack and dun