are not easily come
by even in London today, it would be hard to reproduce this in the
States. So the best we can suggest is to use half-and-half of two of
our own great Cheddars, say half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or
half-Tillamook and half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about
it, contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three
different kinds put together make Puffs all the more perfect.

Ramequins a la Parisienne

2 cups milk
1 cup cream
1 ounce salt butter
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 cup grated Gruyere
Coarsely ground pepper
An atom of nutmeg
A _soupcon_ of garlic
A light touch of powdered sugar
8 eggs, separated

Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the flour and
stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and cream mixture a
little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, remove from heat and
stir in cheese, seasonings and the yolks of all 8 eggs, well
beaten, and the whites of 2 even better beaten. When well mixed,
fold in the remaining egg whites, stiffly beaten, until you have
a batter as smooth and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of
paper, porcelain or earthenware, filling each about 2/3 full to
allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow oven until
golden-brown (or a little less than 20 minutes).

Le Ramequin Morezien

This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comte is described as "a
porridge of water, butter, seasoning, chopped garlic and toast;
thickened with minced Gruyere and served very hot."

Several French provinces are known for distinctive individual Puffs
usually served in the dainty fluted forms they are cooked in. In
Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there are the simply named _Les
Ramequins_, made of flour, Gruyere and eggs.

Swiss-Roquefort Ramekins

1/4 pound Swiss cheese
1/4 pound Roquefort cheese
1/2 pound butter
8 eggs, separated
4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed
1/2 cup cream

The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft insides of the
rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. The egg whites are
folded in last, as always, the batter poured into ramekins part
full and baked to a golden-brown. Then they are served
instantaneously, lest they fall.

Puff Paste Ramekins

Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled with fine
tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as Parmesan with Gruyere
a