nd/or Swiss Sapsago for a piquant change, but in lesser quantity
than the other cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the
favorite for these.

Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with more
cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in small fancy
shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. Brushing with egg
yolk before baking makes these Ramekins shine.

Frying Pan Ramekins

Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then mix with
1/2 pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff
but not dry. Cover frying pan with buttered papers, put slices of
bread on this and cover with the cheese mixture. Cook about 5
minutes, take it off and brown it with a salamander.

There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One holds
that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; the other
that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts have special
cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, to identify their
creations, whether they be burned on the skins of Welsh Rabbits or
Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering with an iron that has a gay,
carnivalesque design can make a sort of harlequin Ramekin.

Casserole Ramekin

Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a deep
casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and Swiss cheese,
with the cheese slices a bit bigger all around. Beat 2 eggs with
2 cups of milk, season with salt and--of all things--nutmeg!
Proceed to bake like individual Ramekins.

[Illustration]

_Chapter Eight_

Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc.

No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always appease them
with pizza.

Pizza--The Tomato Pie of Sicily

DOUGH

1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water
2 cups sifted flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil

Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a ball,
cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place until twice
the size.

TOMATO PASTE

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, sliced thin
1 can Italian tomato paste
8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small
1/2 teaspoon oregano
Salt
Crushed chili pepper
2-1/2 cups water

In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in tomato
paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour water over
and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add anchovies when sauce is