, is made with
whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or tidbits of meat
are at hand, say a half dozen different cubes of meat and
giblets, with as many hearts of artichokes, _finocchi_, tomato,
and different vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk
of melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each
mouthful of the mixture.

Polish Piroghs (a pocketful of cheese)

Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll out very
thin and cut in 2-inch squares.

Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of melted
butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful of seedless
currents.

Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight together to
make little pockets.

Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, and boil
steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the pockets won't burst
open.

Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted butter and a
sprinkling of bread crumbs.

This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes.

Cheesed Mashed Potatoes

Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed potatoes some
old Cheddar with melted butter and a crumbling of crisp, cooked
bacon.

If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can be made via a

Sauteed Swiss Sandwich

Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of thickly
buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, surround it
with one well-beaten egg, slide it into sizzling butter and fry
on both sides. A chef at the New York Athletic Club once improved
on this by first sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and
a slice of chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a
jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in this
until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet butter
made strong men cry for it.

[Illustration]

_Chapter Ten_

Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories,
Snacks, Spreads and Toasts

In America cheese got its start in country stores in our
cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, pick up
the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the big-bellied rattrap
cheese standing under its glass bell or wire mesh hood that kept the
flies off but not the free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too
palatable, the taster would saunter over to the cr