eat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank
of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension
bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I
look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are
two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have
not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell
all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under
flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of
ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a
small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight
feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin,
salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one
bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy
or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking
utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with
white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap,
tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into
Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voila tout." For carrying this baggage,
I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable,
seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going
all the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day,
and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent some
Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian
fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without
much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as
of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant
music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time
in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been
altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen
and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few
men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate,
when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many experiences
to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully done up towards
the end of the march. At last we came to a running stream in which he
laid down and was much refreshed, before that his panting had become