d nook within a mile or two of Srenuggur, the fort
standing above us on the summit of a hill--imposing from its apparently
impregnable position--and there we remained all night.

AUGUST 5th.--Starting early, I soon arrived at the outskirts of the
town, and the boat entered a canal with houses on both sides. There was
some delay at a lock and great excitement in pushing over the fall
caused by the rash of the water. Passed through the city which is a
large one, and encamped under chenars on the banks of the canal on the
other side. The Baboo-Mohu Chundee, an officer appointed by the
Maharajah to attend to the many and varying wants of European
visitors--called upon me and afterwards sent "russud" or a present from
the Maharajah consisting of tea, sugar, flour, butter, rice, salt,
spice, vegetables, a chicken, and a live sheep. Some cloth merchants
also came and I was led into extravagance in purchasing some of their
goods. In the afternoon I got a small boat, a miniature of the larger
one, propelled by six men with paddles. They took me along very quickly,
and I went down the canal which opens into the Jhelum--the main
thoroughfare of Suenaggur opposite to the palace and the adjoining
temple, whose dome is covered with plates of pure gold. It is a very
strange sight, the broad river covered with boats, and lined by houses
built in the curious Kashmirian style. Seven fine bridges cross it, and
on two of them stand rows of shops like our Old London Bridge. I first
went to the Post-office and got a satisfactory communication from our
Paymaster, and also a letter from Bill, giving me the sad tidings of
poor Tyrwhitt's death, which took place at Murree a fortnight after my
departure. It is a selfish consideration, but I cannot help feeling
grateful that he was prevented by an attack of ague from accompanying
me, as he intended. I then went to Sumnad Sha's, the great shawl
merchant, and turned some of the Paymaster's paper into silver currency.
He showed me his stock, and I wished that I possessed the means of
purchasing his goods. But even here a good shawl costs thirty or forty
pounds, very magnificent they are, but I need not describe that which
every English lady knows and longs for, if she has not it. Hewson, the
Paymaster at Chinsurah, is encamped within one hundred yards of me.
Passing in his boat he recognised me, and we went and had a swim and
talked over old times at the Depot.

AUGUST 6th.--Bought some tackle a