pon the water
weeds. Among the several varieties of the weeds, I noticed a great
quantity of "Anacharis." Got fresh mutton and apple-pie for dinner.
Swarms of very minute flies came to the candle dancing their dance of
death. Many thousands were destroyed, and their bodies darkened the
board which serves me for a table. Sopoor like Baramula, river bridged,
and grass growing on the roofs of the houses.

JULY 18th.--In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was
awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended
to ascend, and get a _coup d'oeil_ of the valley. Instead of being on a
river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the
largest in Kashmir. Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half
way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not
mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of
the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great
portion of the view. Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I
shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which
rise very near the water. We are thirty miles from Baramula. The lake is
in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes
it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a
curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft
delicately flavoured kernel--heart-shaped, as big as a filbert.
Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their
crimson feast. Alsoo--a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains.
Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water.

JULY 19th, Sunday.--On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left
my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and
only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only
four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work.
For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above
Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with
butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would
"keep master cool." As we rose--the vale spread out magnificently
beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under
the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain.
Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks
covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit