d here as it is a very pleasant place as regards climate. Snow
in winter, and this the warmest time of the year quite bearable.
Brigadier gone to the _hills_ for the _hot weather._ Took in supplies of
bread and butter and purchased a pair of chuplus or sandals for
marching in, as boots hurt my feet.

JULY 8th.--A long tedious march of nearly fifteen miles to Mansera, put
down in the guide as a level plain road, but having a good many ups and
downs. One of my sandals broke, and I was obliged to ride in the dandy
about half way. Some difficulty occurred in getting my baggage off as
the Coolies did not come. Left my boy to manage it, he came in about
noon with two ponies, I shall not pay for them yet, and then they will
come on with me. A warmer day than yesterday. Mountains rising up in
front, which I shall begin to ascend to-morrow if I make the whole march
of twenty miles. Snow visible above all. The real work of the trip will
now soon commence. The marches hitherto have been child's play compared
with those to come. Mansera is only a native village, but there is a Dak
Bungalow, in which I am now. Met Captain Ellis, of the 4th Hussars,
returning from Kashmir, and had a talk with him. There are _two_ routes
open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by
the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as
to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has
only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for
I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast
with the plains of India.

JULY 9th.--Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to
Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in
sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on.
First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an
undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking
owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it
as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to
Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance
rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by
high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting
of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at
the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dak
Bungalow, a n