ad to pass,
the whole thing seemed so weak and the danger so terrible that I turned
giddy, lost my head, and cried out to be held. A firm hand at once
grasped me behind and another in front. I shut my eyes and so proceeded
a few yards. Then those dreadful men had to be passed. Imagine meeting
a man on a rope fifty feet above a torrent and requiring him to "give
you the wall." However they were passed by a mysterious interlacing of
feet; and when half way over I regained confidence, and bid the men
"chando" or release me, and so gained the opposite bank, where I sat
down and roared with laughter at my "boy" who was then coming over, and
who evidently was much more affected than I was. However he arrived
safely with his black face _pale_, dripping with perspiration and saying
he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one
in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally
laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go
down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low
ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by
the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge,
for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow
built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves
the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet
weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's
Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from
him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book.
There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the
bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick.
It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream.
Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated
Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for
carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they
were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite side.
To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their
impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to certain
destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the whole
of this march, though often tired, as I preferred trusting my own legs
to being carried in the dandy over such bad ground. Curran,
A