of your pleasant voice in Lincoln's Inn
Fields. At last, when the train stopped, I saw two great white clouds
rising up from the depths of the earth,--nothing more. They rose up
slowly, gently, majestically, into the air. I dragged Kate down a deep
and slippery path leading to the ferry-boat; bullied Anne for not coming
fast enough; perspired at every pore; and felt, it is impossible to say
how, as the sound grew louder and louder in my ears, and yet nothing
could be seen for the mist.

"There were two English officers with us (ah! what _gentlemen_, what
noblemen of nature they seemed), and they hurried off with me; leaving
Kate and Anne on a crag of ice; and clambered after me over the rocks at
the foot of the small Fall, while the ferryman was getting the boat
ready. I was not disappointed--but I could make out nothing. In an
instant I was blinded by the spray, and wet to the skin. I saw the water
tearing madly down from some immense height, but could get no idea of
shape, or situation, or anything but vague immensity. But when we were
seated in the boat, and crossing at the very foot of the cataract--then
I began to feel what it was. Directly I had changed my clothes at the
inn I went out again, taking Kate with me, and hurried to the Horse-shoe
Fall. I went down alone, into the very basin. It would be hard for a man
to stand nearer God than he does there. There was a bright rainbow at my
feet; and from that I looked up to--great Heaven! to _what_ a fall of
bright green water! The broad, deep, mighty stream seems to die in the
act of falling; and from its unfathomable grave arises that tremendous
ghost of spray and mist which is never laid, and has been haunting this
place with the same dread solemnity--perhaps from the creation of the
world.

"We purpose remaining here a week. In my next I will try to give you
some idea of my impressions, and to tell you how they change with every
day. At present it is impossible. I can only say that the first effect
of this tremendous spectacle on me was peace of mind--tranquillity--great
thoughts of eternal rest and happiness--nothing of terror. I can shudder
at the recollection of Glencoe (dear friend, with Heaven's leave we must
see Glencoe together), but whenever I think of Niagara I shall think of
its beauty.

"If you could hear the roar that is in my ears as I write this. Both
Falls are under our windows. From our sitting-room and bedroom we look
down straight upon them.