-sixth, 1842._
"NIAGARA FALLS!!! (UPON THE ENGLISH[61] SIDE.)

"I don't know at what length I might have written you from Sandusky, my
beloved friend, if a steamer had not come in sight just as I finished
the last unintelligible sheet! (oh! the ink in these parts!): whereupon
I was obliged to pack up bag and baggage, to swallow a hasty apology for
a dinner, and to hurry my train on board with all the speed I might. She
was a fine steamship, four hundred tons burden, name the Constitution,
had very few passengers on board, and had bountiful and handsome
accommodation. It's all very fine talking about Lake Erie, but it won't
do for persons who are liable to sea-sickness. We were all sick. It's
almost as bad in that respect as the Atlantic. The waves are very short,
and horribly constant. We reached Buffalo at six this morning; went
ashore to breakfast; sent to the post-office forthwith; and
received--oh! who or what can say with how much pleasure and what
unspeakable delight!--our English letters!

"We lay all Sunday night at a town (and a beautiful town too) called
Cleveland; on Lake Erie. The people poured on board, in crowds, by six
on Monday morning, to see me; and a party of 'gentlemen' actually
planted themselves before our little cabin, and stared in at the door
and windows _while I was washing, and Kate lay in bed_. I was so
incensed at this, and at a certain newspaper published in that town
which I had accidentally seen in Sandusky (advocating war with England
to the death, saying that Britain must be 'whipped again,' and promising
all true Americans that within two years they should sing Yankee Doodle
in Hyde Park and Hail Columbia in the courts of Westminster), that when
the mayor came on board to present himself to me, according to custom, I
refused to see him, and bade Mr. Q. tell him why and wherefore. His
honor took it very coolly, and retired to the top of the wharf, with a
big stick and a whittling knife, with which he worked so lustily
(staring at the closed door of our cabin all the time) that long before
the boat left, the big stick was no bigger than a cribbage-peg!

"I never in my life was in such a state of excitement as coming from
Buffalo here, this morning. You come by railroad, and are nigh two hours
upon the way. I looked out for the spray, and listened for the roar, as
far beyond the bounds of possibility as though, landing in Liverpool, I
were to listen for the music