180
Travel southward 181
Carrara and Pisa 181
A wild journey 182
Birds of prey 183
A beggar and his staff 183
"My lord" loses temper 184
And has the worst of it 184
At Rome 184
The Campagna 185
Bay of Naples 185
Filth of Naples and Fondi 186
The Lazzaroni 186
False picturesque 187
Sad English news 187
True friends in calamity 188
At Florence 188
Wayside memorials and Landor's villa 189
Death of Bobus Smith 190
At Lord Holland's 190
Lord Palmerston's brother 190
Again at the Peschiere 190
To publish or not? 191
Thoughts of home 192
American friends 192
Deaths among English residents 193
Scarlet breeches out of place 193
Angus Fletcher 193
Complaint of a meek footman 194
Recalling Lady Holland 194
A touch of Portsmouth 195
Plans for meeting 196
Last letter from Genoa 196
Closing excitements and troubles 196
Italians hard at work 197
Returning by Switzerland 197
Passage of the St. Gothard 198
Splendours of Swiss scenery 198
Dangers of it 199
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