rather vulgar and savoured of
the shop, and no one can regret that the fancy has gone by. All that is
needed now is the oyster fork, or, if fruit is to be the first course, a
spoon or fork on the right, then the soup spoon, and either one or two
knives as will be needed; on the left either two or three forks; the
handsome dessert or ice cream spoon may lie across the top of the plate.
There are always changes going on in table silver, yet good things are
really never out of date. For instance, bouillon spoons have perfectly
circular bowls at present, yet if one does not happen to own a set of
these, teaspoons do quite as well to use with small cups or bowls. So
with salad forks; the tines grow longer or shorter from season to
season, yet any fork may be used for salad, whether intended for that
particular course or not. Ordinary ice-cream spoons or forks are
modified also; sometimes one sees a combination of the two, or a
spade-shaped spoon is pronounced the only proper thing. Since every
year brings out something new, the only safe rule for the housekeeper
to observe is to buy things which are not extreme, and then use them
with an easy mind, whatever be the fancies of the day.

The custom of having a decorated service plate at each place is such a
good one that it is likely to remain long in vogue. It is intended to
hold the oyster plate, the plate with the bouillon bowl if the latter
has no saucer, and the plate with the first hot course, after which it
is removed with the one that has been used. When the guests come to the
table this service plate holds a roll folded in a napkin.

[Illustration]

Small bowls with two handles are used for the bouillon or soup at
luncheon, but if one does not have them, an ordinary cup of rather good
size is substituted. The plates used are ordinarily of rather smaller
size than those seen at dinner, as the dishes are of a lighter
character, and the handsomest are reserved for the fingerbowls, which
are put on the table with the bonbons and coffee only, unless the meal
begins with fruit, when they appear twice.

The question of lighting the table is one that often puzzles young
housekeepers or novices at entertaining. "Shall we use candles at
_luncheon_?" they ask, bewildered at the seeming absurdity of the idea.
At first thought it may seem that is a foolish thing to do, yet there is
good reason for having them at certain times. In the city, especially in
winter, the dining-room