for souse cook till
the meat and gristle fall from the bones. If for frying, take up the
feet as soon as they are tender, keeping them in shape. Boil heads the
same way, taking out eyes, cutting off ears and cleaning them carefully
inside. Pick the meat from the bones, mix it with the feet also picked
up, work seasoning well through it--salt, black and red pepper, herbs if
approved, likewise a trifle of onion juice, then pack in deep molds,
pour over a little of the boiling liquor--barely enough to moisten--and
set to cool uncovered.

Let the boiling liquor stand until cold, covered only with a cloth. Skim
off the oil--hog's foot oil is a fine dressing for any sort of
leather--then dip off carefully the jelly underneath. Do not disturb the
sediment--take only the clear jelly. Melted, clarified with white of
egg, seasoned with wine, lemon juice, or grape juice, and sufficiently
sugared, the result puts all gelatines of commerce clean out of court.
Indeed any receipt for gelatine desserts can be used with the hog's foot
jelly. A small salvage perhaps--but worth while.

Everybody knows brains can be fried--just as all know they can be
addled. We of the old south pickled ours. Go and do likewise if you want
an experience. Begin by scalding the brains--putting them on in cold
water very slightly salted, then letting them barely strike a boil. Skim
out, drop in cold water, take off the skin, keeping the lobes as whole
as possible, lay in a porcelain kettle, spice liberally with black and
red pepper, cloves, nutmeg and allspice, cover with strong vinegar,
bring to a boil, cook five minutes, then put in a jar, cool uncovered,
tie down and let stand a week before using. Thus treated brains will
keep for six weeks, provided they are kept cool.

We also pickled our souse--cutting it in thin slices, and laying them in
strong vinegar an hour before serving. Another way was to melt the souse
into a sort of rich hash--beaten eggs were occasionally added, and the
result served on hot toast. At a pinch it answered for the foundation of
a meat pie, putting in with it in layers, sliced hard boiled eggs,
sliced cucumber pickle, plenty of seasoning, a good lump of butter, and
a little water. The pie was baked quickly--and made a very good supper
dish if unexpected company overran the supply of sausage or chicken for
frying.

But fried hog's feet were nearly the best of hog killing. After boiling
tender, the feet were split lengthwise in