er boiling of a proper ham reaches the level of high art. Proper
boiling makes any sound ham tolerable eating; conversely a crass and
hasty cook can spoil utterly this crowning mercy of the smokehouse. Yet
proper cooking is not a recondite process, nor one beyond the simplest
intelligence. It means first and most, pains and patience, with somewhat
of foresight, and something more of judgment.

Cut off the hock, but not too high--barely the slender shankbone. Then
go all over the ham with a dull knife, scraping off every bit of
removable grease or soilure. Wipe afterward with a coarse, damp cloth,
then lay in a dishpan and cover an inch deep with cold water. If the
water is very hard soften by adding a tiny pinch of baking soda. Leave
in soak all night. In the morning wash well all over, using your coarse
cloth, and a little scouring soap, then rinse well in tepid water,
followed by a second rinsing in cold water, drain, and wipe dry. A
flat-bottomed boiler is best--with one rounding, there is greater risk
of scorching. Set a rack on the bottom else an old dish or earthen
pieplate, pour in an inch of water, set over the fire, lay the ham upon
the rack, skin side down, and fill up with cold water till it stands two
inches above the meat. Take care in adding the water not to dislodge the
ham from the rack. Bring the water to a boil, throw in a pint of cold
water and skim the boiler very clean, going over it twice or three
times. After the last skimming add half a dozen whole cloves, a dozen
whole alspice, a pod of red pepper, a few whole grains of black pepper,
and if you like, a young onion or a stalk of celery. Personally I do
not like either onion or celery--moreover they taint the fat one may
save from the pot. Let the water boil hard for half a minute, no longer,
then slack heat till it barely simmers. Keep it simmering, filling up
the pot as the water in it boils away, until the ham is tender
throughout. The time depends on several things--the hardness and age of
the ham, weight, curing. Fifteen minutes to the pound, reckoned from the
beginning of simmering, is the standard allowance. I have no hard and
fast rule--my hams boil always until the fork pierces them readily, and
the hip-bone stands clear of flesh.

A big ham, fifteen to twenty pounds weight, had better be left in the
water overnight. A smaller one, say of ten pounds weight, should remain
only until thoroughly cold. Take up carefully when cold, let drain