neither too fat, nor too lean, scientifically butchered in clear,
frosty, but not freezing weather, and hung unsalted in clean, cold air
for a matter of three days. Saw off shank and hip bones neatly, and cut
the meat smooth, removing any tags and jags, then pack down in an agate
or clean wooden vessel that has been scalded, then chilled. Half cover
with a marinade thus proportioned. One pint pickling salt to one gallon
cold water, boil and skim clean, then add one pint vinegar, a dozen each
of whole cloves, allspice and pepper corns, a pod of red pepper, a
teaspoon of powdered saltpeter, and a small cup of oil. Simmer for half
an hour, and cool before pouring on the meat. Let it lie in the liquor a
week, turning it twice daily. Take from marinade, wipe, and lay in air,
return the marinade to the fire, boil up, skim well, then add enough
plain brine to fully cover the hams, skim again, cool and pour over,
first scalding out the containing vessel. Let stand a week longer, then
drain well, wipe with a damp cloth, rub over outside with a mixture of
salt, moist sugar, and ground black pepper, and hang in a cool, airy
place where the hams can be lightly smoked for a fortnight.
Winter-curing, or late fall, alone is possible to the average
householder. After smoking, wrap in waxed paper, and canvas the same as
other hams.

Cook the same as venison, which mutton thus cured much resembles. Slice
and broil, serving with butter and very sour jelly, else boil whole in
very little water until tender, glazing with tart jelly, and crisping in
the oven after draining and cooling. Or soak two hours in cold water,
then cover completely with an inch-thick crust of flour and water mixed
stiff, and bake in a slow oven four to five hours. Serve always with
very piquant sauce, and sharp pickle, or highly spiced catsups. Make
jelly from wild grapes, wild plums, green grapes, green gooseberries or
crab apples, using half the usual amount of sugar, especially for such
meat.

Melt half a glass of such jelly with a tablespoon of boiling water. Add
black pepper, paprika, a dash of tabasco, and the strained juice of a
lemon, add gradually a teaspoon of dry mustard. Cook over hot water
until well mixed and smooth, and keep hot until served.

Beef hams are troublesome--but worth the trouble. Take them from small
but well fatted animals, cut off the shank, also part of the top round.
Rub over very scantly with powdered saltpeter, mixed well through