on in blended flavors, in the delights, the surprises of
the Creole kitchen. Tall and slim, of a golden-brown complexion, neat to
the point of austerity, trim and self-contained, sight of her somehow
gave an added piquancy to her dishes. She did not make friends readily,
but the comradery of cooking induced her to more than tolerate me. "I
don't say I kin cook--but my mother can," she often told me--smiling
proudly the while, with the buzzing praises of _gourmets_ sounding in
her ears. She could never tell you how she made her ambrosial
dishes--but if you had my luck to be _persona gratis_ she could and did
show you, to the queen's taste.

I shall write only whereof I know--not by any means a compend of Creole
cookery. Indeed, a lifetime is hardly enough to eat of all its
specially excellent dishes. It seems to me from this scant experience,
one general principle runs through all. It is the blending of
proportioned flavors, achieved through long and gentle cooking. Milly
said she let things "sob," a mistake I dare say, for the old-time "sod,"
past participle of "seethe." But I by no means speak with authority--my
deduction is from the premise of fifty dinners, each it seemed to me
uniquely excellent. After this prelude come we to specific recipes.

_Court Bouillon_: (Pronounced "Coubare.") Milly sighed for Redfish or
Red Snapper but made shift with halibut or any other firm fine-grained
fish perfectly fresh. Take three pounds of it, wash very clean, and cut
in six equal slices with a very sharp knife. There must be no rags and
tatters. Melt a heaping tablespoonful of lard in a deep kettle, add to
it gradually two tablespoonfuls flour, stirring hard so it shall not
burn. Throw into it a dozen pounded alspice, three sprigs each of thyme,
parsley, bay leaf and sweet marjoram chopped fine, one small clove of
garlic, one large onion also chopped fine, and either six large fresh
tomatoes, chopped small, or half a can--those from glass are best. Pour
in a large glass of claret, add a quart of boiling water, and bring all
to a very brisk boil. Cook for five minutes, then add salt and Cayenne
pepper to taste. Boil five minutes longer, then lay in the fish slices
one at a time, following them with the strained juice of a lemon. Boil
hard twenty minutes longer. Serve hot.

To make _Court Bouillon a la Espagnole_, stir together as above, lard
and flour, taking care to have them smooth, add a large onion, six
tomatoes, clove of ga