rch furnishings, a choir screen, some elaborate stalls, a
little tapestry,--which looks well and is certainly old,--and a modern
tiled floor which is not offensive.

As is frequently seen in Germany, the pillars and shafts have a series
of statues superimposed upon them; always a daring thing to do, but in
this case of far better execution and design than is frequently
encountered. Before the church is a monument in honour of Cornelius de
Pauw, the friend of the great Frederick, a canon of the church and a
famous spiritual writer. He was born at Amsterdam in 1739 and died at
Xanten in 1799.

XXXII

ARNHEIM, UTRECHT, AND LEYDEN

_Arnheim_

The Rhine in Holland is a mighty river. It divides itself into many
branches, all of which make their way to the sea through that country
which Butler in the "Hudibras" calls:

"A land that draws fifty feet of water,
In which men live as in the very hold of nature,
And when the sea does in upon them break,
And drowns a province, does but spring a leak."

The Rhine proper, the Oud Rijn and the Neder Rijn, enfolds three great
ecclesiastical centres of other days, Arnheim, Utrecht, and Leyden.

Arnheim is the chief town of the Guelderland, and seats itself proudly
on the banks of the Neder Rijn just above its juncture with the Yssel.
Of its fifty-five thousand inhabitants, twenty-five thousand are Roman
Catholics, which fact makes it one of the most strongly Catholic cities,
if not the strongest, in the Netherlands.

Formerly the city was known as the Arenacum of the Romans, and served as
the residence of the Dukes of the Guelderland up to 1538. In 1579 it
gave adherence to the "Union of Utrecht," and in 1672 was taken by the
French, when it became one of the principal fortresses of Holland.
To-day the fortifications serve the purpose to which they are so
frequently devoted in the cities and towns of Continental Europe, and
form a fine series of promenades.

In 1813 the town was taken by the Prussians, but in spite of all this
changing of hands, it remains to-day as distinctly Dutch as any of the
Low Country cities and towns. Its houses are well built of brick and
equally well kept, and its sidewalks are as cleanly and well cared for
as the courtyard of a palace.

To-day the aspect of Arnheim is that of a quaint though modern-looking
Dutch city. It is a favourite place of residence for "_messieurs du
sucre_,"--rich Hollanders and Orientals from the Du