ical towers which are worthy of a far more important edifice.

The interior is entirely modern as to its furnishings and fitments.

On four pillars of the nave are placed, back to back, statues of the
evangelists,--a species of decorative embellishment which, at all times
since the fifteenth century, has been greatly favoured throughout
Germany and the Low Countries. In France it is a feature but seldom
seen, and, among the smaller parish churches, has almost its only
examples at Vetheuil on the Seine below Paris, and at Louviers.

The high altar is modern, as are also the black and white marble
baptismal fonts.

The pulpit is quite a grand affair, though modern also. Its
sounding-board shows a figure of Moses holding aloft the tables of the
law. It is admirably conceived and executed, and is of much artistic
merit.

Arnheim possesses several other religious edifices; but, as satisfactory
expressions of ecclesiastical art or architecture, they are quite
unworthy. The only one worthy of remark--and that only for its
unseemliness--is a modern Protestant place of worship in the form of a
vast rotunda, which in all respects resembles a great building enclosing
a panorama.

Behind the _chevet_ of the Groote Kerk, the ancient cathedral, is a fine
old-time house of the sixteenth century. It is known, somewhat
sacrilegiously one thinks, as the Maison du Diable, and was formerly the
residence of a famous brigand or highwayman,--if there be any subtle
distinction between the two. This brigand was moreover of the nobility,
and was known as Martens van Rosum, Duke of the Guelderland. In front of
the house is a miniature terrace, and, on the walls above, to the right,
are three monstrous effigies of devils, as well as one of a woman. In
the centre, upon a pillar, is a bust of Van Rosum, and an inscription to
the effect that the house was restored in 1830. To-day it is occupied by
certain municipal offices.

_Utrecht_

In many respects Utrecht was, in the past, the most important city in
Holland, not commercially, but politically.

To-day it is simply the capital of the province of Utrecht, the seat of
a Catholic archbishop, and of a Jansenist archbishop as well.

Of its population of quite a hundred thousand souls, one-third, at
least, are of the Catholic profession, which is an astonishing
proportion for a city of Holland. For this reason, perhaps, the city
remains the metropolis of the Catholic religion in the Nether