e, as though it were intended to have been decorated.

Dortmund's "Pfarr Kirche" was a former Dominican foundation. Its general
proportions are far greater than those of any other of the city's
churches. The nave is ample, and the great choir of four bays, with
spacious, lofty windows, is of the same generous proportions.

The church dates only from the mid-fourteenth century, and its
three-bayed nave is even later. The aisles of the nave are curious in
that they are not of similar dimensions. That on the street side is
separated from the nave proper by square piers, with a slender shaft
running to the vaulting. The other aisle is more ample, and has its
arched openings to the nave composed of four shafts superimposed upon a
central cylinder.

The nave lighting is amply provided for by a series of four light
windows, bare, however, of any glass worthy of remark.

The south wall, which has no windows, has two large frescoes, a
"Descent of the Holy Ghost" and an "Assumption." There is also a series
of paintings by two native artists, Heinrich and Victor Dunwege.

[Illustration]

XXXI

EMMERICH, CLEVES, AND XANTEN

_Emmerich and Cleves_

Just below Emmerich, which is the last of the German Rhenish cities, the
Rhine divides itself, and, branching to the north, takes the Dutch name
of Oud Rijn, which name, with the variation Neder Rijn, it retains until
it reaches the sea. The branch to the west takes the name of the Waal
and passes on through Nymegen, bounding Brabant on the north, and enters
the sea beyond Dordrecht.

Emmerich has, in its church of St. Martin, a tenth-century church of no
great architectural worth, but charming to contemplate, nevertheless.

Four kilometres away is Cleves, which, under the Romans, was known as
Clivia and attained considerable prominence and prosperity. The Normans
sacked it in the ninth century, but it was shortly rebuilt, and became
the chief town of the County, afterward the Duchy, of Cleves.

Under the Empire the city belonged to France. The town's principal
church is quite attractive, but, beyond the distinction which it has in
its twin spires, terminating a singularly long line of roof-top of nave
and choir, there are no architectural features of note.

_Xanten_

At a little distance from the Rhine, just before the frontier of Holland
is reached, is Xanten, the ancient Ulpia Castra. Near by, in the
neighbouring village of Mirten, one sees the remains of an a