cookery was execrable. Garlic and oil were its principal ingredients.
The olla podrida, and its constant attendant, the tomato sauce, were
intolerable, but the wine was very well for a midshipman. Whenever we
had a repast in any of these houses, the bravos endeavoured to pick a
quarrel with us; and these fellows being always armed with stilettos, we
found it necessary to be equally well prepared; and whenever we seated
ourselves at a table, we never failed to display the butts of our
pistols, which kept them in decent order, for they are as cowardly as
they are thievish. Our seamen, not being so cautious or so well
provided with arms, were frequently robbed and assassinated by these
rascals.

I was, on one occasion, near falling a victim to them. Walking in the
evening with the second master, and having a pretty little Spanish girl
under my arm,--for, to my shame be it spoken, I had already formed an
acquaintance with the frail sisterhood,--four of these villains accosted
us. We soon perceived, by their manner of holding their cloaks, that
they had their stilettos ready. I desired my companion to draw his
dirk, to keep close to me, and not to let them get between us and the
wall. Seeing that we were prepared, they wished us "_buenos noches_"
(good night), and, endeavouring to put us off our guard by entering into
conversation, asked us to give them a cigar, which my companion would
have done, had I not cautioned him not to quit his dirk with his right
hand, for this was all they wanted.

In this defensive posture we continued until we had nearly reached the
plaza or great square, where many people were walking, and enjoying
themselves by moonlight, the usual custom of the country. "Now," said I
to my friend, "let us make a start from these fellows. When I run, do
you follow me, and don't stop till we are in the middle of the square."

The manoeuvre was successful; we out-ran the thieves, who were not aware
of our plan, and were encumbered with their heavy cloaks. Finding we
had escaped, they turned upon the girl, and robbed her of her miserable
earnings. This we saw, but could not prevent, such was the police of
Spain then, nor has it improved since.

This was the last time I ventured on shore at night, except to go once
with a party of our officers to the house of the Spanish admiral, who
had a very pretty niece, and was _liberale_ enough not to frown on us
poor heretics. She was indeed a pretty creature