thing very charming about the people of the interior of
Brazil, after they had overcome their first suspicion of strangers and
their own shyness. They seemed imbued with the idea that everybody went
there specially to do them harm. They lived in a constant state of fear
and trembling, even of their own relations and friends. They all went
about armed to the teeth, and would not dream of going a yard outside
their homes without a revolver, a rifle and a dagger. Even to walk about
the village the men were all armed.

When not in a rage or sulky--which seemed to be their almost constant
condition--they were the most good-hearted people I have ever met;
gentle, affectionate--in fact, so sentimental that it became a positive
nuisance. If one learnt how to deal with them--which was not always
easy--they were really delightful people in their enviable simplicity.

A reflection of the people's mentality was to be discovered at a glance
in examining the articles that were for sale in the only shop in the
village. There, remember, you were in a country which, from an
agricultural point of view, could be made of immense value. Now, did you
notice any implements in the shop which suggested agricultural pursuits
of any kind whatever? No; what you found were patent leather dress shoes,
elaborately embroidered top-boots, fancy neckties, gaudy gilt and silver
spurs of immense size, bottles of powerful perfumes, fancy soaps,
mirrors, combs, and highly-coloured calicoes, beer, fire-water, and other
such articles of luxury.

[Illustration: Characteristic Types of Brazilians of the Interior.

(Notice degenerate faces and development of goitre.)]

[Illustration: A Typical Village of the Province of Goyaz.]

The Corumbahyba village stood at an elevation of 2,250 ft. in a hollow
surrounded by low hills. The water was delicious at that place.

As I was getting through my lunch--which I enjoyed thoroughly after my
morning march of 23 kil.--I saw crossing the square two murderers laden
with iron chains, led along with a rope by two mounted men. The natives
present laughed as they saw the poor devils struggle along. Not a sign of
pity or care was shown by anybody present.

After leaving Corumbahyba we witnessed a panorama of magnificent mountain
scenery from a height of 2,550 ft., to which we had ascended. Then came a
steep and rugged descent through a forest down to a streamlet (2,250
ft.); then up another ascent to 2,350 ft. and down aga