n them.

But if the place was miserable, if the natives were repulsive and dull,
there was plenty to be thankful for in admiration of the really glorious
country around, and the superb sunsets to which we were treated every
evening. Again that evening, when everybody in the place was slumbering,
the sunset was more wonderful than words can describe. The usual
radiations, which again reached the highest point of the sky's vault,
were that night white on the west, with corresponding ones of brilliant
cobalt blue to the east.

A drizzling rain rendered the night cold and damp, although the
Fahrenheit thermometer registered a minimum temperature of 70 deg..

On leaving S. Antonio the trail ascended to a height of 3,100 ft. (41/2
kil. from the village), and we were then in a rich forest region, where
the _acaju_--of the _Terebinthaceae_ family--was plentiful, with its huge
leaves and contorted branches. The acaju produced a refreshing fruit,
either of a bright red or else of a yellow colour, not unlike a large
pepper, outside of which was strongly attached a seed possessing highly
caustic qualities. Many _gordinha_ trees were also to be seen. It was
interesting to see how those zones of forest were suddenly succeeded by
beautiful and vast areas of grazing land, such as we found that day. We
crossed three streams at the respective elevations of 2,550 ft., 2,650
ft., and 2,750 ft., after which we reached an elevation of 3,000 ft., the
highest we had so far attained on our route from the coast, where we
found ourselves on a grassy tableland of considerable beauty. Looking
back to the S.S.E., we perceived the two hill ranges, one behind the
other, which we had crossed. Between them and us were marvellous slopes
covered with green grass, but not in the lower portion, where bordering
the stream was luxuriant forest. This was noticeable also on a hill to
the west, forming a minor tableland with rounded sides.

To the N.N.E. was a perfectly flat plateau. The distance rendered it of a
deep blue, and its level sky-line gave the appearance of the horizon upon
the ocean, except that there rose two small peaks which stood up slightly
above the elevation of the plateau. On all that beautiful land only two
small miserable farms were to be seen. Yet it seemed to be a paradise on
earth--delightful climate, excellent soil, useful woods in the forest,
plenty of delicious water.

Three more streamlets flowing from west to east were encounte