ion was somewhat stunted, but
interesting, for many were the trees I noticed which could be put to some
use or other. The Barbatimao (_Stryphnodendron bar._ M.) was plentiful,
and could be used advantageously in tanning leather; the Pao ferro
(_Caesalpinia ferria_ M.) and the Paneira, were present in quantities.

Through the forest we descended in three hours to the Rio Virissimo,
which, swollen by the sub-tributaries Barrocas, Indaica, Pirahitinga and
Perobas on the east and Vae Vem on the west, throws itself into the
Paranatinga between Morro Alto and Porto do Barreiro. That stream had
been bridged over. We had descended to 2,000 ft. During the entire
distance--we had travelled some 23 kil. from the Paranahyba River--we had
passed only two miserable sheds and we had not met a single soul, barring
a glimpse at a shaggy female who happened to be opening the door of her
hut as we were passing, and with a yell of terror banged it again, and
bolted it as she perceived us riding by.

A peculiar kind of wild fig-tree was to be seen, ball-like in appearance,
with branches inclined down instead of skyward like most trees. On our
right as we proceeded down to the farms of S. Jeronymo and Sta. Barbara
(elev. 2,400 ft.) stood a mountain with beautiful grazing land upon its
slopes. Healthy fat cattle, in most wonderful condition--testifying to
the excellence of the grazing in that region--were bred by the farmers.
To the north, north-east and north-west behind this place were to be seen
delightful green round-topped hills, also with excellent grazing. A few
cows and imported zebus were to be seen, it is true, but the country
could support a million times that number and more.

It was that evening that I noticed for the first time in Brazil a
peculiar and most wonderful effect of light at sunset--not unlike an
aurora borealis. White, well-defined radiations shot skyward from the
west, where the sun had set, and stood out luminously against the dark
blue sky, like the spokes of a gigantic wheel. This effect, as we shall
see, was repeated frequently at sunset, and sometimes was even more
beautiful than on the occasion of that first acquaintance with it.

We marched 391/2 kil. that day--with my nine pack-mules, Formosa (which in
Portuguese means "beautiful"), the splendid white mule I rode, and three
other mules ridden by my men. It was a real pleasure to see the appetite
of the animals when we made camp. How joyfully they ground wi