on remonstrating with the proprietor at the price demanded,
he cooly said, "Oh, yes, everything here costs high; but there is money
to pay it with." This really stated the fact. Conditions in Merida are
the most abnormal of any place which I have visited. Owing to the war in
the Philippines, and interference with the trade in hemp, the fiber
of the hennequin is in great demand, and money is plentiful. At good
restaurants each plate costs thirty cents, instead of ten or twelve, as
in the City of Mexico itself. No coach will cross the street for less
than fifty cents; for a cooling drink, such as in the capital city would
cost three cents, one here pays twelve. The shortest street-car line
charges ten cents; and everything else is in proportion. What the
hotel-keeper said, about there being money to pay these frightful
prices, was equally true. We paid _cargadors_ four times, draymen three
times, more than we have ever done in any other part of Mexico. In the
restaurants we saw _cargadors_ calling for plates at thirty cents,
boot-blacks eating ices at one _real_, newsboys riding in coaches, and
other astonishing sights. In the plaza, good music is played on Sunday
nights, and every one is out in all his finery; fruits, sweetmeats,
refreshing drinks, are hawked everywhere, and are much indulged in;
under the corridors are little tables, where ices, iced milk and drinks
are served. At the hotel we passed a night of horror, suffering from the
heat, dust, ill-placed lights, mosquitoes and other insects. Leaving my
companions I went the following morning to Progreso to attend to the
unlucky baggage. For variety, I took the broad-gauge road, but found
little difference in the country through which we passed. The number of
wind-mills was astonishing, and most of them were Chicago aeromotors. At
one station a great crowd of pure indians got off and on the train. The
American consul at Progreso is too much interested in archaeology to be
found at his office, but his Mexican vice-consul was present. To him
our difficulty was explained, and on his advice we deposited the forty
dollars demanded for duty, and signed various documents of remonstrance,
upon which we paid almost four dollars more for stamps. We were then
permitted to take out enough plates for immediate use, leaving the
balance in Progreso until we should be ready for our return journey.

Acting on the advice of the vice-consul, we changed quarters in Merida
from the Hote