the women of Chiapa in
their lacquer-work. We soon reached the river, and, leaving our animals
behind, to cool before swimming them across, embarked with a dozen other
passengers, and all our baggage, in one of the great canoes, which we
by no means filled. Landing on the other side, with an hour to wait, we
walked down stream, and took a fine bath in the fresh cold, clear, deep
water. Just below where we were bathing, some indians had exploded a
dynamite cartridge, killing a quantity of fish, and the surface was
immediately spotted with their white, upturned bellies. A canoe-load of
four men put out to gather the fish, as soon as the shot was fired. Just
as they reached the spot, and were leaning over the boat to catch them,
the canoe overturned, and all the men were floundering in the water, up
to their necks, and the canoe was rapidly drifting down the stream. The
fish they get here are quite large, and seem to be a kind of cat-fish.
Strolling back to our landing-place, we were interested in the lively
scenes there being enacted. Under little arbors of leafy boughs, women
were washing clothing; crowds of children, of both sexes, were playing
on the sand or splashing in the water; half-a-dozen great canoes were
dragged up on the bank, and amid these a group of little brown fellows,
from ten to fourteen years of age, were swimming; here and there, a man
or woman squatted in the shallow water, dipped water over their bare
bodies with _jicaras_. Now and then the great ferry-boat, loaded with
passengers and with animals swimming alongside, made its crossing.
Presently our seven animals were swum across, and, after a moment's
drying, were repacked and saddled, and we were ready for our forward
movement.

[Illustration: ZOQUE COMPADRES GREETING; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]

[Illustration: OUR FERRY-BOAT; CHIAPA]

Chiapa was formerly the great town of the Chiapanecs, an Indian tribe to
whom tradition assigns past splendor, but who, to-day, are represented
in three villages, Chiapa, Suchiapa, and Acala. They are much mixed with
Spanish blood, and have largely forgotten their ancient language. It is,
however, from them, that the modern state, Chiapas, received its name.
Chiapa, itself, is a city of some size, situated on a terrace a little
way from the river, with a ridge of hills rising behind it. The _plaza_
is large, and in it stands a market-building. Near by is a picturesque
old gothic fountain, built of brick. Market was almost