seven, and a little later the new oxen
appeared. There were two yokes of rather light animals. Leaving our sick
beast, and driving the other three along with us, the new animals were
put to the loads, and at eight o'clock we started. I failed to recognize
Rancho Disengano, but having passed it, we found ourselves at the bottom
of the much-dreaded, last important climb of the journey. The little
team dragging the passenger cart was inefficient and unruly; tiring
of them, I dismounted and went ahead on foot. For a time I drove the
unyoked cattle, but a stubborn one wandering into the brush, I gave up
the job, and left poor Louis, who had just overtaken me, to chase him.
He had hard work, through tangled brush, here and there, up and down,
until at last the animal was once more upon the road. The boy was hot,
tired, and loaded with _pinolillos_. These insects had been in evidence
for a long time back. They are exceedingly small ticks, which fix their
claws firmly in the flesh, and cause intolerable itching. Keeping in the
road, the traveller is little likely to be troubled by them; but walking
through grass, or among leafy plants, is dangerous. Having climbed a
portion of our great ascent, we found ourselves at Agua Bendita. It was
not as beautiful as on the occasion of my other visit; the projecting
ledge of rock had little water dripping, and in the round catch-basins,
which formerly were filled with fresh, clear water, there was scarcely
any; on account of the unusual dryness, the ferns were wilted, and there
was little of that beauty and freshness which so delighted me before.
Eustasio said that he had never seen the spot so dry in all his many
journeys. Nor were there orchids blooming on the great tree near; nor
any of the little toucans which had been so attractive in 1896. As we
stood, seeking for these well-remembered things, we heard curious cries
rising from the valley. At first, I thought it was indians wailing for
the dead; then, that it was a band of pilgrims singing. But it turned
out to be a company of cowboys, bringing cattle up for shipment to
Tabasco. Some rode ahead, and, with loud but not unmusical cries,
invited and urged the animals and their drivers to follow. The beasts
were divided into three bands, thirty or forty in a band, each of which
had its mounted drivers. The animals were lively, and we were warned
that they were _muy bravo_. Manuel had taken the task of driving our
loose cattle, and was fe