Vienna, as in Berlin, the fashionable hours are very late and one
is more or less forced to follow them. Nothing happens before noon and
evening entertainments end somewhere in the early morning hours.

* * * * *

_Sunday, December 27th._ This morning I was allowed by special
permission to visit the Imperial Museum, which is closed to the public
on account of the war. I took luncheon with Mr. Cardeza, Attache to
the Embassy, and dined with Mr. O'Shaughnessy. The American diplomats
in Vienna and Berlin generally have been very much isolated since the
war began, and in each place the corps has become much like a big
family whose members see a great deal of one another.

* * * * *

Count Berchtold, whom I have seen on several occasions, is a wiry man
of medium height, always grave, intent and all-observing under a mask
of stolidity. He never "talks" and seldom speaks. When he does he is
terse and speaks out of one corner of his mouth as if reluctant to let
the words escape. He is, however, noted for the most unfailing and
perfect manners. It is said he can hear perfectly every separate
conversation that may be carried on in any room where he happens to be
present, and not only hears what is spoken but catches every little
motion or hint of important matters. Such is the man whose hand struck
the match that lit the long-prepared conflagration in which the total
military casualties alone already far exceed five million.

* * * * *

_Monday, December 28th._ I went again to the Imperial Museum this
morning and later took luncheon with the Count Colloredo von Mansfeld,
to meet Conseiller Black Pasha of the Turkish Embassy. Conferences at
the Embassy with Captain Briggs, Mr. Grant-Smith, and Mr. Hinckley.

* * * * *

The man who did as much to bring about this war as any single agency
was the German Ambassador to Vienna, Heinrich von Tschirski und
Boegendorff.

I sent home today by cable our code-word "greetings" as a New Year's
message. It goes through the Embassy here in Vienna and the State
Department at Washington. It cost me eighteen crowns, but I know it
will be worth many times that to my family, as it must be some weeks
now since they have had news from me.

CHAPTER XI

HUNGARY

_Budapest, Tuesday, December 29th._ I left Vienna at nine o'clock this
morning and reached Budapest