, is a fine grey sandy mud
or marl, but in more exposed situations this is not so compact, whilst
broken shells are more abundant. This bottom bears a striking resemblance
to that within the Great Barrier Reefs.
After leaving the Abrolhos, as I have narrated, our progress to the
northward was unusually slow, and between the parallels of 26 degrees 50
minutes South and 25 degrees 40 minutes South we again got into soundings
varying from 187 to 81 fathoms, fine grey sand. At the greatest depth the
ship was forty miles from the land, and twenty miles at the least, which
was off Dirk Hartog's Island, at the south point of Sharks Bay. In
passing round the north-west extremity of the continent we delayed, again
endeavouring to get sight of Ritchie's Reef; but, on this occasion, as on
our passage from the Victoria to Swan River, it was not seen, and as no
bottom was obtained with 200 and 240 fathoms in its assigned position on
the chart, it must either have a very different one or does not exist.
PROCEED TO THE COAST.
The part of the North-west coast that had not been seen by Captain King,
commencing a short distance to the east of Depuch Island, it was resolved
that our survey of that part should begin there, and on the 9th of June
the Beagle reached an anchorage off a sandy bay on the north-east side of
that island. As we drew near our progress was impeded by a fierce
south-east breeze during the forenoons, which we found to prevail during
our stay, being stronger at the full and change of the moon. Although
coming directly from the land they quite made us shiver, reducing the
temperature on one occasion to 59 degrees. These winds began about
daylight at south, gradually veering and drawing round to the eastward as
the day advanced, and subsiding again as rapidly after noon, leaving the
evening and night generally calm.
SEARCH FOR WATER.
A search was immediately made for the stream of fresh water reported to
have been found by the French, in Freycinet's voyage, on Depuch Island.
As our stock was now very much reduced, and as our stay on the coast
depended on the supply we could procure here, we were greatly concerned
to find that our examination was in vain. Everything appeared parched up;
wells were forthwith commenced, and we dug as many as eight, but at the
depth of twenty-one feet the water that poured into them was salt.
Fortunately Mr. Bynoe found a reservoir of water in the main valley
leading up from the no
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