med to a considerable extent in cafes.

BRAZIL. In Brazil every one drinks coffee and at all hours. Cafes making
a specialty of the beverage, and modeled after continental originals,
are to be found a-plenty in Rio de Janeiro, Santos, and other large
cities. The custom prevails of roasting the beans high, almost to
carbonization, grinding them fine, and then boiling after the Turkish
fashion, percolating in French drip pots, steeping in cold water for
several hours, straining and heating the liquid for use as needed, or
filtering by means of conical linen sacks suspended from wire rings.

The Brazilian loves to frequent the cafes and to sip his coffee at his
ease. He is very continental in this respect. The wide-open doors, and
the round-topped marble tables, with their small cups and saucers set
around a sugar basin, make inviting pictures. The customer pulls toward
him one of the cups and immediately a waiter comes and fills it with
coffee, the charge for which is about three cents. It is a common thing
for a Brazilian to consume one dozen to two dozen cups of black coffee a
day. If one pays a social visit, calls upon the president of the
Republic, or any lesser official, or on a business acquaintance, it is a
signal for an attendant to serve coffee. _Cafe au lait_ is popular in
the morning; but except for this service, milk or cream is never used.
In Brazil, as in the Orient, coffee is a symbol of hospitality.

In CHILE, PARAGUAY and URUGUAY, very much the same customs prevail of
making and serving the beverage.

_Coffee Drinking in Other Countries_

In AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND, English methods for roasting, grinding,
and making coffee are standard. The beverage usually contains thirty to
forty percent chicory. In the bush, the water is boiled in a billy can.
Then the powdered coffee is added; and when the liquid comes again to a
boil, the coffee is done. In the cities, practically the same method is
followed. The general rule in the antipodes seems to be to "let it come
to a boil", and then to remove it from the fire.

In CUBA the custom is to grind the coffee fine, to put it in a flannel
sack suspended over a receiving vessel, and to pour cold water on it.
This is repeated many times, until the coffee mass is well saturated.
The first drippings are repoured over the bag. The final result is a
highly concentrated extract, which serves for making _cafe au lait_, or
_cafe noir_, as desired.

In MARTINIQUE, c