e
continuous percolation machines, as represented by numerous complicated
and high-priced contrivances on the market. Gradually, however, true
coffee lovers are realizing that the best results are to be obtained
through simple percolation or simple filtration. There are good
arguments for both methods.

_Coffee Making in Europe in the Nineteenth Century_

ENGLAND. We have noted Count Rumford's efforts to reform coffee making
in England in the early part of the nineteenth century. Many other
scientific men joined the movement. Among them was Professor Donovan,
who in the _Dublin Philosophical Journal_ for May, 1826, told of his
experiments "to ascertain the best methods for extracting all the
virtues inherent in the berry." The _Penny Magazine_ for June 14, 1834,
after deploring "the straw-colored fluid commonly introduced under the
misnomer of coffee in England", thus digests Professor Donovan's
findings:

Mr. Donovan found, that what we shall call the medicinal quality of
coffee resides in it independent of its aromatic flavor,--that it
is possible to obtain the exhilarating effect of the beverage
without gratifying the palate,--and, on the other hand, that all
the aromatic quality may be enjoyed without its producing any
effect upon the animal economy. His object was to combine the two.

The roasting of coffee is requisite for the production of both
these qualities; but, to secure them in their full degree, it is
necessary to conduct the process with some skill. The first thing
to be done is to expose the raw coffee to the heat of a gentle
fire, in an open vessel, stirring it continually until it assumes a
yellowish colour. It should then be roughly broken,--a thing very
easily done,--so that each berry is divided into about four or five
pieces, when it must be put into the roasting apparatus. This, as
most commonly used, is made of sheet-iron, and is of a cylindrical
shape: it no doubt answers the purpose well, and is by no means a
costly machine, but coffee may be very well roasted in a common
iron or earthenware pot, the main circumstances to be observed
being the degree to which the process is carried, and the
prevention of partial burning, by constant stirring. One of the
requisites for having good coffee is that it shall have been
recently roasted.

Coffee should be ground very fine for use,