recorded.

During this period of convalescence I studied the Chinese language and
traveled considerably in the surrounding country. Tong-ch'uan-fu is a
city of many scholars, and it was not at all difficult for me to find a
satisfactory teacher. He was an old man, with a straggly beard, about 70
years of age, and from him I learned much about life in general, in
addition to his tutoring in Chinese. I had the advantage also of close
contact with the missionaries with whom I was living, and on many
occasions was traveling companion of Samuel Pollard, one of the finest
Chinese linguists in China at that time. So that with a greatly
increased knowledge of Chinese, I was henceforth able to hold my own
anywhere. During this period, too, many days were profitably passed at
the Confucian Temple, a picture of which is given in this volume.

END OF BOOK I.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote Y: In the capital there is a street called "Copper Kettle
Lane," where one is able to buy almost anything one wants in copper and
brass. Hundreds of men are engaged in the trade, and yet it is
"prohibited." These "Copper Kettle Lanes" are found in many large
cities.--E.J.D.]

BOOK II.

The second part of my trip was from almost the extreme east to the
extreme west of Yuen-nan--from Tong-ch'uan-fu to Bhamo, in British Burma.
The following was the route chosen, over the main road in some
instances, and over untrodden roads in others, just as circumstances
happened:

Tong-ch'uan-fu to Yuen-nan-fu (the capital city) 520 li.
Yuen-nan-fu to Tali-fu 905 li.
Tali-fu to Tengyueh (Momien) 855 li.
Tengyueh to Bhamo (Singai) 280 English
miles approx.

I also made a rather extended tour among the Miao tribes, in country
untrodden by Europeans, except by missionaries working among the people.

FIRST JOURNEY

TONG-CH'UAN-FU TO THE CAPITAL

CHAPTER XIII.

_Stages to the capital_. _Universality of reform in China_. _Political,
moral, social and spiritual contrast of Yuen-nan with other parts of the
Empire_. _Inconsistencies of celestial life_. _Author's start for
Burma_. _The caravan_. _To Che-chi_. _Dogs fighting over human bones_.
_Lai-t'eo-p'o: highest point traversed on overland journey_. _Snow and
hail storms at ten thousand feet_. _Desolation and poverty_. _Brutal
husband_. _Horse saves a