en chopped off
_en route_, he may increase his wonder to doubt. The aspect here in
Yuen-nan--politically, morally, socially, spiritually--is that of another
kingdom, another world. Conditions seem, for the most part, the same
yesterday, to-day, and for ever. And in his new environment, which may
be a replica of twenty centuries ago, the dream he dreamed is now
dispelled. "China," he says, "is _not_ awaking; she barely moves, she is
still under the torpor of the ages." And yet again, in the capital and a
few of the larger cities, under your very eyes there goes on a reform
which seems to be the most sweeping reform Asia has yet known.

Such are the inconsistencies, seemingly unchangeable, irreconcilable in
conception or in fact; a truthful portrayal of them tends to render the
writer a most inconsistent being in the eyes of his reader.

* * * * *

No one was ever sped on his way through China with more goodwill than
was the writer when he left Tong-ch'uan-fu; but the above thoughts were
then in his mind.

Long before January 3rd, 1910, the whole town knew that I was going to
Mien Dien (Burma). Confessedly with a sad heart--for I carried with me
memories of kindnesses such as I had never known before--I led my
nervous pony, Rusty, out through the Dung Men (the East Gate), with
twenty enthusiastic scholars and a few grown-ups forming a turbulent
rear. As I strode onwards the little group of excited younkers watched
me disappear out of sight on my way to the capital by the following
route--the second time of trying:--

Length of Height
stage above sea
1st day--Che-chi 90 li. 7,800 ft.
2nd day--Lai-t'eo-p'o 90 li. 8,500 ft.
3rd day--Kongshan 100 li. 6,700 ft.
4th day--Yang-kai 85 li. 7,200 ft.
5th day--Ch'anff-o'o 95 li 6,000 ft.
6th day--The Capital 70 li 6,400 ft.

My caravan consisted of two coolies: one carried my bedding and a small
basket of luxuries in case of emergency, the other a couple of boxes
with absolute necessities (including the journal of the trip). In
addition, there accompanied me a man who carried my camera, and whose
primary business it was to guard my interests and my money--my general
factotum and confidential agent--and by an inverse operation enrich
himself as he could, and thereby maintain relations of warm mutual