The scenery is sometimes very lovely: mountain-ranges are to be
observed rising one above another, in that wild conglomeration
peculiar to volcanic countries; and in the Island of Nipon the snowy
cone of Fusiyama is almost always visible from the higher ground.

The hilly country is thickly wooded; but terraces of fields are
sometimes cut in the sides, where the formation of the ground permits.
The lowlands and valleys are mostly covered with rich crops of
cereals, which are watered by natural or artificial streams.

As the Tokaido winds along the hill-tops, occasional glimpses of the
sea meet the eye, often with a series of headlands jutting one beyond
another into it, and distant islands dotting the horizon.

By the wayside many rare and beautiful ferns are to be seen; and in
their seasons, the large white lilies of the country, hydrangeas,
violets, orchids, and an endless variety of wild flowers.

[Illustration: Carpenters at work. (Native drawing.)]

Along this beautiful road are constantly passing Daimios and their
hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims, and a large
portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the Tokaido passes
through most of the principal towns, the traveller has frequent
opportunities of observing the various avocations of the people; for
mechanics commonly work in front of their doors, as shown in the
woodcut; and in fine weather, the sliding windows through which the
Japanese enter their houses are always drawn back, leaving the
interior and its occupants open to the road.

The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the wayside
scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese house. It will
be noticed that the puppies in the foreground, as well as the cat in
the girl's arms, are very differently delineated; but such animals are
the especial stumbling-blocks of the native artists, although they
faithfully represent birds, fishes, and reptiles.

With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys (who, by the
way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses officially set apart
for their use), for the mass of the people to be seen on the Tokaido
belong to the lower classes--the aristocracy considering it beneath
their dignity to travel for pleasure, or to make pilgrimages.

[Illustration: A BAKER'S SHOP.]

[Illustration: A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING.]

Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly to enjoy
travelling, which in fine wea