ther has few drawbacks. It is true that
the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down upon your knees,' at the
approach of one of their oligarchical rulers, would be objectionable
to Europeans; but the Japanese are accustomed to this, and proceed
with their journey after half-an-hour's detention without being in any
way put out by it.

[Illustration: Tea-house Girl waiting. (Native drawing.)]

The numerous and pleasant tea-houses that skirt the Tokaido have a
great deal to do with rendering travelling popular, A smiling welcome
from the pretty waitresses employed at these places may always be
anticipated by the weary wayfarers; and, however slight their
requirements may be, they are certain to be promptly and courteously
attended to.

If the means of travellers do not permit them to resort to the
tea-houses, there are sheds and stalls at intervals along the road,
where they can obtain fruit or refreshments at a trifling cost.

Some of the tea-houses in the vicinity of large towns are much
frequented in the spring-time by pleasure-parties, on account of the
beauty of their gardens. The chromo-lithograph opposite represents one
of these parties, some of whom appear to have been indulging too
freely in saki. The fellow dancing and waving the fan about is
apparently addressing a love-song to the lady opposite, whose husband
is evidently desirous of putting a stop to the flirtation.

CHAPTER XI.

THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE.

There are two Japanese customs so diametrically opposed to English
ideas, and so materially affecting the national character, that it is
necessary to call special attention to them.

The espionage system is perhaps the strangest, as every one in the
country is subjected to it, from the Mikado and Tycoon, or spiritual
and temporal emperors, to the humblest of the people.

All offices of importance are double; that is to say, every governor
of a town or district is associated with a vice-governor, who is an
'ometsky,' or 'spy,' upon him, and is in turn spied upon by others. In
this way a constant check is kept upon the executive of the empire.

In addition to this acknowledged system, government officials are
frequently watched by secret spies, who, for aught they know, may be
some apparently trusty friend: so that, even in the absence of their
double, they can never be certain that they are free from supervision.

In private life families spy on each other, for which purpose they a