r, and then a terrible fright they caused me."

"How was that?"

"I will tell you, sir; I had been across the Berwyn to carry home a piece
of weaving work to a person who employs me. It was night as I returned,
and when I was about halfway down the hill, at a place which is called
Allt Paddy, because the Gwyddelod are in the habit of taking up their
quarters there, I came upon a gang of them, who had come there and camped
and lighted their fire, whilst I was on the other side of the hill.
There were nearly twenty of them, men and women, and amongst the rest was
a man standing naked in a tub of water with two women stroking him down
with clouts. He was a large fierce-looking fellow and his body, on which
the flame of the fire glittered, was nearly covered with red hair. I
never saw such a sight. As I passed they glared at me and talked
violently in their Paddy Gwyddel, but did not offer to molest me. I
hastened down the hill, and right glad I was when I found myself safe and
sound at my house in Llangollen, with my money in my pocket, for I had
several shillings there, which the man across the hill had paid me for
the work which I had done."

CHAPTER XV

The Turf Tavern--Don't Understand--The Best Welsh--The Maids of
Merion--Old and New--Ruthyn--The Ash Yggdrasill.

We now emerged from the rough and narrow way which we had followed for
some miles, upon one much wider, and more commodious, which my guide told
me was the coach road from Wrexham to Ruthyn, and going on a little
farther we came to an avenue of trees which shaded the road. It was
chiefly composed of ash, sycamore and birch, and looked delightfully cool
and shady. I asked my guide if it belonged to any gentleman's house. He
told me that it did not, but to a public-house, called Tafarn Tywarch,
which stood near the end, a little way off the road. "Why is it called
Tafarn Tywarch?" said I, struck by the name which signifies "the tavern
of turf."

"It was called so, sir," said John, "because it was originally merely a
turf hovel, though at present it consists of good brick and mortar."

"Can we breakfast there," said I, "for I feel both hungry and thirsty?"

"Oh yes, sir," said John, "I have heard there is good cheese and cwrw
there."

We turned off to the "tafarn," which was a decent public-house of rather
an antiquated appearance. We entered a sanded kitchen, and sat down by a
large oaken table. "Please to bring us some bread, chee