was reflected in its deep dark
waters.

As the night went on we passed through the glorious country of the
Orleanais, washed by the waters of the historical and romantic Loire.
Who that has gone down its broad winding course can forget the charms of
its ancient towns? The halo surrounding Orleans, the pure accents of
Tours, the architectural wonders of Loches--home of the
Plantagenets--its towers and churches visible even under the stars; and
beyond Nantes, the gentle splendours of La Vendee. Porters in the
darkness of night shouted "Orleans!" and we felt in the very garden of
France, where nature is so bountiful that the labour of man is hardly
needed to bring forth the fruits of the earth. In these sunny provinces
dwell the happiest, most light-hearted of her sons. The earth abundantly
furnishes their daily bread and wine. It comes without trouble and is
eaten without care.

Night and darkness rolled away. We approached Bordeaux. Last year, at
this same hour, about this same time, we had found it enveloped in mist,
had made the acquaintance of Monsieur le Comte San Salvador de la
Veronniere, and wondered how his small body bore the weight of its
majestic name. But the wind is tempered to the shorn lamb and the back
is fitted to the burden. This time there was no comte and no mist. We
had watched the dawn break and a glorious sunrise turn fleecy clouds
into flaming swords. The earth awoke and the lovely woods and forests,
with their wealth of fern and bracken, were touched with rosy glowing
light as the sun shot above the horizon.

Just before reaching Bordeaux we made a discovery. A secret impulse
urged us to examine our luggage-ticket, and we were electrified at
finding it registered to Irun instead of Portbou. Steaming into the
crazy old station, we found out the station-master, and explained the
difficulty. He was politeness itself, and once more we could not help
contrasting the courtesy of the French officials with the less agreeable
manners of the Spanish.

"This would have been serious," said M. le Chef. "I am glad you found it
out in time. After Bordeaux it would have been too late. You and your
luggage would have gone your separate ways."

Then calling a porter, he handed him the ticket, bade him search the
luggage-vans and bring away the numbers indicated.

"A little against the rules," said the Chef smiling; "but life is full
of inevitable exceptions, and because we stick to too much red tape, and
w