h an open porch to a
view extensive and magnificent. A steep rugged descent led to the town.
Below us was the ancient Benedictine church of San Pedro, with its
Norman doorway and cloisters scarcely less wonderful than those we had
just visited. Near it was a smaller, equally ancient church, now
desecrated and turned into a carpenter's shop. We will pay it a visit
by-and-by and make acquaintance with its sturdy owner, who passes his
days and does his work under the very shadow of sanctity. Beyond all, on
the brow of the hill outside the walls, we trace the ruins of the great
castle and citadel that so nobly stood the siege of Gerona, until the
twin spectres famine and disease stalked in hand in hand and conquered
the brave defenders.

We gazed long upon all these historical landmarks, pointed out and
explained by our guide-companion. Then turning back through the
cloisters again found ourselves lost in visions of the past as we fell
once more under the magic influence of the vast space and dim religious
light of Gerona's splendid cathedral.

CHAPTER V.

GERONA THE BEAUTIFUL.

A Gerona senora--Grace and charm--Lord of creation--Morning
greeting--Arcades and ancient houses--Conscription--Gerona a
discovery--Streets of steps--Ancient eaves and rare
ironwork--Old-world corner--Desecrated church--Gothic
cloisters--Ghosts of the past--Visions of to-day--Soldiers
interested--"Happy as kings"--Lingerings--Colonel seeks
explanation--No lover of antiquity--More conscription--Dramatic
scene--Pedro to the rescue--Mother and son--Sad story--Strong and
merciful--Pedro grateful--Restricted interests--Colonel becomes
impenetrable again.

Last night we had found much to admire, though in the darkness the
charms were only half seen. This morning on opening our window clouds
hung low and threatening; yet the grey tone over all was in such
singular harmony with the ancient city that we hardly regretted the
gloomy skies.

Immediately opposite our casement was a small draper's shop presided
over by an industrious feminine genius. She was up betimes and worked as
though she had taken to heart all the proverbs of Solomon. A short, dark
woman of the true Spanish type, bright, active, and not above all manner
of work, for she swept her pavement diligently and arranged her wares;
doing all with a certain natural grace that was not without its charm.

We thought her a young widow s