it was pulled down and rebuilt; and sometimes
it happened that the new was no improvement on the old. This was not the
case with Gerona. The cathedral was rebuilt in 1016, but the nave was
reserved for Boffy and his genius four hundred years later. That early
cathedral was turned into a mosque when the Moors took Gerona, but they
allowed Catholic services to be held in the Church of San Filiu, close
at hand, now shorn of part of its spire. In 1015 the Moors were expelled
and the old cathedral was reinstated.

The nave has the fault of being too short, and Boffy could not fail to
see that it wants in proportion. Either space or funds failed him, and
the giant had to be dwarfed. Still it remains gigantic with a clear
width of seventy-three feet. Toulouse, next in width, has sixty-three
feet; Westminster Abbey only thirty-eight feet. For the effect of
contrast the smaller choir and aisles throw up the proportions of the
vast vault. Over all is its wonderful tone; whilst the obscure light
brings out the pointed arches of choir and chapels and the slender
fluted pillars in softened outlines.

The choir has a magnificent retablo and baldachino of wood and silver: a
rare work of art dating back to the year 1320: so promising that we
wished to see the treasures of the sacristy. It was the duty of a
certain priest to show them. The priests take the office in turn. To-day
he whose turn it was proved unamiable. "He would not show them; had
other things to do; we must come another day," hurriedly buttoning his
heavy black cloak as he spoke; an ill-favoured example of his race,
short, swarthy, unshaven. We explained that our hours were limited.
Without further parley he marched rapidly down the aisle, cloak flying,
hobnailed shoes waking desecrating echoes.

Then another and kindlier priest came up; altogether a different and
more refined specimen of humanity. He would gladly show us the treasures
if we would wait whilst he sought the keys. With these he soon returned
and thought he had been long. "I am sorry to keep you," he said, "but
they were not in their place. Now let me turn showman and do the
honours."

Leading the way into the large sacristy he unlocked a cupboard and took
out a key. With this he opened a drawer and took out another key. The
treasure was well guarded. Finally he swung back great doors and our
eyes were dazzled as he lighted a beautiful old lamp whose rays flashed
upon gemmed and jewelled crooks and cros