be fashionably late. Everything in the way of entertainment is late in
Spain, and especially in Gerona. At night the streets are soon deserted,
but people do not go to bed. They sit up in their own homes, amusing
themselves.

"It is announced for half-past eight," said Joseph, "but seldom begins
before nine."

[Illustration: OLD HOUSES ON THE RIVER: GERONA.]

Accordingly before eight-thirty we found ourselves in our seats waiting
the lifting of the curtain. The house was nearly empty, though it was
within five minutes of the appointed hour. Not a sign of any orchestra.
We feared a cold reception and a dead failure.

"Not at all," said Joseph. "It is always the same. Before nine o'clock
the house will be full, with hardly an empty seat anywhere."

So it proved. About twenty minutes to nine the orchestra streamed in and
took their places, laughed, talked and made jokes, as if the
audience--now quickly appearing--had been so many cabbage-stalks. In
various parts of the house there were notices forbidding smoking; but
the musicians lighted their abominable pipes and cigars without
ceremony, and soon ruined the atmosphere. We wondered how this would
affect the singers, and when they came on they coughed, sneezed, and
looked reproachful.

It was a large, well-appointed house, of excellent proportions. Half the
town might surely find room here. Curtains and all such elements
disturbing to the voice were conspicuous by their absence. Before nine
o'clock every seat was filled, as Joseph had foretold.

Between the acts we were able to survey the little world of Gerona. Many
clearly thought themselves members of a great world. Humility was not
their leading virtue. From the construction of the house, every one was
very much in evidence, and from our places in the front stalls we saw
and heard perfectly. "Monarchs of all we survey," said H. C. after a
long stare in all directions. "No, I don't quite mean that; it would be
slightly embarrassing. I mean that we survey everything as though we
were monarchs. It comes to the same."

Every species of temperament was represented; the solemn and sober,
excited and flirting, prude and profligate. Extremes met. Some of the
ladies made play with their eyes and fans, were full of small gestures
and rippling laughter. Many were dressed "in shimmer of satin and
pearls," their white arms and necks very decolletes. Thus we had both a
play and an opera. It was quite as amusing to study the