encroachment, British enterprize might here find a superb field, and the
Arabian peninsula might, for the first time in history, be added to the
civilized world.

The travellers now ran up the Red Sea. The navigation has greatly
improved within these few years, in consequence of the intercourse
between England and India. Surveys have been made, and charts have been
formed, which almost divest the passage of peril. But the navigation is
still intricate, in consequence of the coral rocks and numerous shoals,
which, however, may be escaped by due vigilance, and the experienced
mariner has nothing to fear. The aspect of the coast, of both Africa and
Arabia, is wild and repulsive; but some compensation for the monotony of
the shores is to be found in the sea itself. When calm, the transparency
of the water exhibits the bottom to the depth of thirty fathoms. "And
what a new world is discovered through this vale of waters! what
treasures for the naturalist!" The sands are overspread with forests of
coral plants of every colour, shells of remarkable beauty; and, in the
midst of this sub-aqueous landscape, fish of brilliant hues sporting in
all directions. At length they reached the gulf of Suez, with the blue
peaks of Sinai in the distance, and continued running up the gulf, which
was one hundred and sixty miles long, until Suez came in sight. Here all
is dreary: deserts and sand-banks form the whole landscape. Arab boats
came alongside, and conveyed the passengers from the steamer. The town
looked dismal; its walls and fortifications were in decay; the
landing-place was crowded by sickly-looking creatures, the evident
victims of malaria, and the chief ornament of the place was a large
white-washed tomb. This condition of things was not much improved when
the party found themselves in the hotel of Messrs Hill and Co.
Musquittoes, and every species of frightful insect, made war against
sleep; and when their reign had passed away, and the travellers rose,
crowds of flies continued the persecution. The travellers made a bad
bargain in paying their passage-money at once from Suez to Alexandria;
and it is described as the wiser mode to pay only to Cairo, and then
take the choice of the several conveyances which are sure to be found
there. The Arab drivers and carriers seem to have fully acquired those
arts of extortion, which flourish in such abundance wherever English
money is to be found. They cheat, and lie, and cajole, with
extr