buyer with a few
dirty dollars in your pockets, and you can't expect a man to demean
himself by taking them. And observe humility not only in the shops, but
elsewhere. I was anxious to know how I should cross the Pacific to
'Frisco, and very foolishly went to an office where they might, under
certain circumstances, be supposed to attend to these things. But no
anxiety troubled the sprightly soul who happened to be in the
office-chair. "There's heaps of time for finding out later on," he said,
"and anyhow, I'm going to the races this afternoon. Come later on." I
put my head in the spittoon, and crawled out under the door.

When I am left behind by the steamer it will console me to know that
that young man had a good time, and won heavily. Everybody keeps horses
in Yokohama, and the horses are nice little fat little tubs, of the
circus persuasion. I didn't go to the races, but a Calcutta man did, and
returned saying that "they ran 13-2 cart-horses, and even time for a
mile was four minutes and twenty-seven seconds." Perhaps he had lost
heavily, but I can vouch for the riding of the few gentlemen I saw
outside the animals. It is very impartial and remarkably all round.

Just when the man from Boston was beginning to tell me some more stories
about first families, the Professor developed an unholy taste for hot
springs, and bore me off to a place called Myanoshita to wash myself.
"We'll come back and look at Yokohama later on, but we must go to this
because it's so beautiful."

"I'm getting tired of scenery. It's all beautiful and it can't be
described, but these men here tell you stories about America. Did you
ever hear how the people of Carmel lynched Edward M. Petree for
preaching the gospel without making a collection at the end of the
service? There's no romance in America--it's all hard business facts.
Edward M. Petree was--"

"_Are_ you going to see Japan or are you not?"

I went to see. First in a train for one hour in the company of a
carriageful of howling Globe-trotters, then in a 'rickshaw for four. You
cannot appreciate scenery unless you sit in a 'rickshaw. We struck after
seven miles of modified flat--the flattery of Nature that lures you to
her more rugged heart--a mountain river all black pools and boiling
foam. Him we followed into the hills along a road cut into the crumbling
volcanic rock and entirely unmetalled. It was as hard as the Simla
cartroad, but those far hills behind Kalka have no such pi