s a very heavy freight traffic in wood and provisions for the big
towns, and there's a local traffic that you can have no idea of unless
you've watched it. The people seem to move in twenty-mile circles for
business or pleasure--'specially pleasure. Oh, I tell you, Japan will be
a gridiron of railways before long. In another month or two you'll be
able to travel nearly seven hundred miles on and by the Tokaido line
alone from one end to the other, of the central islands. Getting from
east to west is harder work. The backbone-hills of the country are just
cruel, and it will be some time before the Japs run many lines across.
But they'll do it, of course. Their country must go forward.

"If you want to know anything about their politics, I'm afraid I can't
help you much. They are, so to speak, drunk with Western liquor, and are
sucking it up by the hogshead. In a few years they will see how much of
what we call civilisation they really want, and how much they can
discard. 'Tisn't as if they had to learn the arts of life or how to make
themselves comfortable. They knew all that long ago. When their railway
system is completed, and they begin to understand their new
Constitution, they will have learned as much as we can teach 'em. That's
my opinion; but it needs time to understand this country. I've been a
matter of eight or ten years in it, and my views aren't worth much. I've
come to know some of the old families that used to be of the feudal
nobility. They keep themselves to themselves and live very quietly. I
don't think you'll find many of them in the official classes. Their one
fault is that they entertain far beyond their means. They won't receive
you informally and take you into their houses. They raise dancing-girls,
or take you to their club and have a big feed. They don't introduce you
to their wives, and they haven't yet given up the rule of making the
wife eat after the husband. Like the native of India you say? Well, I am
very fond of the Jap; but I suppose he _is_ a native any way you look at
him. You wouldn't think that he is careless in his workmanship and
dishonest. A Chinaman, on an average, is out and away a bigger rogue
than a Jap; but he has sense enough to see that honesty is the best
policy, and to act by that light. A Jap will be dishonest just to save
himself trouble. He's like a child that way."

How many times have I had to record such an opinion as the foregoing?
Everywhere the foreigner says th