ot enter on the side of the apple I can not say,
but there is a little fuzz on the outer side of the apple at that stage
of growth that perhaps prevents their getting in, and that fuzz as the
apple grows larger disappears, so a little later they can enter on the
side or at any other part of the apple that they choose.

[Illustration: Hon. H. M. Dunlap, Savoy, Ills.]

When the blossoms fall the apples stand upright on the tree, and the
little pointed leaves that are on the blossom end of the apples, that we
call the calyx, are all open, and at that time you can spray so as to
get the arsenate of lead on the inside. Within a week or ten days after
the bloom falls these sepals, or little leaf points, gradually close
together until they are all closed up tight, and after that you can't
get your spray in there. After the worm hatches he gets between the
little leaves of the calyx and goes on the inside of the apple and into
its center. You want to have your poison ready for Mr. Worm when he
enters the blossom end of the apple, and the more thoroughly and more
effectively you spray the better are the results.

It has been said that if you spray thoroughly at that time, that that is
the only spray you really need for the codling moth worm. I don't agree
with that, as there is always a second brood of worms. I use the
arsenate of lead along with the lime-sulphur for all these sprays,
before the bloom and after the bloom, and if you don't spray more than
three times you will be doing yourself a good service, and it will well
pay you. In some parts of the country they spray as high as seven or
eight times in the commercial orchards, but I would say in a farmer's
orchard three times would be enough, once before the bloom and twice
later, and you will notice the good results.

There are other sprays besides these, but none perhaps of any importance
to you up here except the winter spray for the San Jose scale, if you
have that, and I noticed one or two specimens out there that seemed to
have the scale upon them. That spray should be done either in the fall
or early winter or late winter while the trees are dormant. That has to
be put on of winter spray strength, using lime-sulphur or some of the
other San Jose scale sprays without the arsenate of lead, as you don't
need to use the lead with this spray.

Now, as I stated to start with, these remarks ought to be appropriate to
your needs and to make them so it would be a good dea